The brand's motto, “When your initials are enough”, has taken on a different meaning altogether.

By Gerald Tan

One of my fondest memories of Bottega Veneta happened in 2014 when I was assigned to cover the fall/winter shows of Milan men's fashion week. I remember it was a particularly cold January afternoon, and the group of us fashion scribes and editors had circled back to the brand's office for something the industry calls a “resee”. Usually taking place the next day after a runway show, these re-see sessions allow us to get up-close to the clothes and discover details we otherwise would've missed on the catwalk.

We had just finished studying the pieces conceptualised by then-Creative Director Tomas Maier when I noticed a black coat hanging on a separate rack not too far away. Impeccably cut from cashmere, the outerwear had commanded our attention despite its nondescript appearance. Sensing our curiosity and interest, the brand representative invited us to try it on.

As I stared at myself in the mirror, the coat hanging perfectly from my frame, I understood at that very moment what Bottega Veneta's raison d'être is: Since its founding in 1966, it has continued to stand for discreet luxury wrought by the skill of the human hand. And under the 17 years-long stewardship of Maier, the ethos was amplified with sartorial hits such as the roomy Cabat bag and the elegant minaudière.

Now, helmed by Daniel Lee after Maier stepped down in 2018 (it was widely speculated that the latter's designs had failed to make a connection with digitally savvy Millennial shoppers), Bottega Veneta is enjoying a fresh wave of popularity. The 32-year-old's ongoing transformation of the Italian House is widely lauded by industry pundits for its fresh and contemporary take on luxury. Here are three reasons you should keep an eye out for it.

IT'S ONE OF THE HOTTEST BRANDS AROUND

Lee has only been at the top seat at Bottega Veneta for only a year, but he has increased its clout amongst a new generation of women who are after sophisticated clothes once offered by the likes of Phoebe Philo when she was at Céline. And it's little wonder Lee has managed to capture and distill that essence of quiet elegance into his designs for Bottega Veneta—he previously cut his teeth as director of ready-to-wear at the renowned French House.

Lee's transformation of Bottega Veneta is now the talk of town. For the first time ever, it cracked the Lyst Index's top 20 hottest fashion brands during the third quarter of 2019, coming in at 16.

A HOUSE CODE, REVITALISED

Bottega Veneta has always eschewed the use of logos (hence, its motto), and in the place of flashy monograms or loud symbols its intrecciato weave has become somewhat of an emblem. Upon Lee's appointment, he went to work updating its appeal to reflect the times. Lee breathed new life by upsizing the criss-crossing pattern with giant panels of woven leather instead, immediately adding a sleek and minimalist undertone to his turnout of accessories

IT MAKES SOME REALLY COOL ACCESSORIES

Unless you've been living under a rock, you'd have seen Lee's creations appear all over your Instagram feed. His squared-toed sandals sparked a buying frenzy and are especially popular amongst the style-savvy crowd. Ditto the Pouch, a handy clutch crafted from supple leather that looks set to become a House signature. The popularity of these items, plus Bottega Veneta's new lease of life, led to Lee taking home three prizes at the recently concluded British Fashion Awards: “Designer of the Year”, “British Designer of the Year in Womenswear”, and “Accessories Designer of the Year”. Bottega Veneta, in turn, bagged the coveted “Brand of the Year” accolade.